Thursday, August 28, 2008

Monsoon Sojourn


When Monsoon hampered my trips to less travelled roads, I have no other option but to travel through the rain, enjoying its varying moods. Beauty of rain varies with different terrains. In the hill area rain has a violent mood and in the plains it is romantic. If you want to see the interplay of different moods of rain visit a backwater village and thus Munroe Island became my natural choice. Armed with an umbrella and my favourite camera I reach Munroe Island to capture the beauty of the last lap of famed Kerala Monsoon.

Still it was raining. Toads croaked along the side of rain soaked narrow pathways, birds were trying to dry themselves by shaking feathers sitting on fences. The village is sleepy, seems incessant rain has made it more idle.

Unique village

Munroe Island is nestled between Ashtamudi Lake and Kallada River and this location makes it a place worth to visit. Officially it is a Panchayat in Chittumala block in Kollam District. Two other islands Pattomthuruthu and Pezhumthuruthu are connected to Munroe Island and the trio makes this area unique.

On reaching the mainland, I got the assistance of an auto-driver, Rajeev who is also a good guide. He takes me to the inner regions of the islands but warns that there are some areas where his humble machine cannot reach, you have to tread through mud and I agree. The rain was in its full beauty and playing freely and seems enjoying its last monsoon days. Raindrops created ripples in the backwater, slowly it gains strength and the calm Ashtamudi Lake gets excited and responds with full vigour to the showers. Labourers were hurriedly loading coconut husks in the country boat braving rain. When musical beats of rain sync with the beauty of backwaters it becomes a rare experience to cherish.

Best kept Secret

To see the surprising secret of this village, you have to walk through muddy pathways amidst coconut groves. It is an old beautiful church built by the Dutch in 1878. The red church stands in the verdant area like an old heap of fire, a classic beauty of Dutch-Kerala architecture. Nobody was there except a black cow grazing in front of the church braving the rain. A favourite haunt of wood pigeons, this church has survived the test of time and looks like a stoic witness to different moods of Ashtamudi Lake.

I walk along the verandah of the Church to see the beauty of huge white pillars, a typical form of Dutch architecture. There are no regular masses here and dust gathered here is evidence of it. The only Christian family here is that of Louis Fernandez. This octogenarian looks after the affairs of this Church which falls under Kollam Bishop. The annual affair of Palli Perunnal or Festival is conducted with the help of Non-Christians in the area, says Fernandez. They make it sure to conduct it without any fail. There are two tombs in the backyard of the church; one is that of the wife of Louis Fernandez. The other one is not decipherable.

Rain and the River

On the western side of Munroe island flows the majestic Kallada River. From the Kadavu I decided to cross the river in a country boat that ferries people to West Kallada and back. This is the best way to enjoy the beauty of rain in a river. My co-travellers were cursing rain for its pranks as the oarsman struggled to control the balance of the boat in the rough river. Though calm on the top there will be strong under currents, says an elder and he shows the place in the river where a boat race will be conducted during Onam.

Rain showered on swinging country boats tied to coconut trees along the bank of the river as people waited with umbrellas for the next boat. River was happily flowing after receiving cool showers from the heaven. I wanted to enjoy the beautiful setting for the whole day but have to retreat as the clouds gave the signals of next big rain.

Lesson of History

Munroe Island got its name from Colonel Munroe, the British Resident of Erstwhile Travancore. He was elevated to the post of Dewan in 1910 by Rani Gouri Lakshmi Bhai. He held the post till 1914 and was instrumental in connecting Munroe Island to other islands by digging navigable canals.

Later Colonel Munroe gave the island to Kottayam Church Society for Evangelical purpose. In 1930 Rani Sethu Lekshmi Bhai retrieved it back to government. Stone Age tools and Megaliths have been dug out from this island.

How to reach there

You can reach Munroe Island through Rail, road and water. If you want to enjoy the beauty of backwaters and have time and patience for a two and a half hour boat ride, the best option is to travel by a boat. The government owned boat service is from Kollam jetty to Pattomthuruth. Check the boat timings before you opt for it.

Munroe Island is 25 Kilometres away from Kollam. There are no frequent buses from Kollam, hence board a bus from Kundara and travel 12 kilometres to reach Munroe Island.

There is a railway station at Munroe Island but only passenger trains halt here. Confirm the passenger train timings if you are going by train.

4 comments:

Sapna Anu B.George said...

When did you write this and why was i not told??? very bad???any how grear write up and flowing language

ജയരാജ്‌മുരുക്കുംപുഴ said...

best wishes......

Anisha Rajesh said...

Reminds me of the rainy day train journeys from Trivandrum.The picture you painted in words is one of the most scenic route when you travel from trivandrum.

Pranavam Ravikumar said...

Well written Sir!